London is often called to be the baby of the four major fashion capitals. While it’s tiny in terms of size, it’s massive in its influence. It may not be as glamorous as Paris or the lavishness of Milan or the cost associated with New York, but what is what makes it the British capital so unique is its position as the center of unique, bold and bold ideas.
The late Lady Vivienne Westwood was the linchpin of such views. Her anger and rebellion and activism demonstrated what made events such as London Fashion Week so special. Then came pioneers such as Lee Alexander McQueen with his Spring/Summer 1999 collection, which used robots to spray paint Shalom Harlow’s dress in black while making it clear that LFW should be considered the main participant.
In addition to London’s fashion-forward tradition in London is U.K. is also known for bringing the newest streetwear stars. Think Palace’s rise up to the top, working with Gucci or the latest fashions such as Corteiz and its monopoly on the young of today by generating viral videos such as that of the Bolo Exchange. The names mentioned above have not only set the standard for how Brits wear their clothes, they have also also influenced the world at large with their ingenuity and wit.
It’s only one week in 2023, and the U.K. is already gearing to celebrate some major moments in our country and in the world beyond. With famous celebrities taking over official events and others dominating on a global scale and global Houses acknowledging the significance in London Fashion Week and British streetwear moving into the new era of dominance over culture, Hypebeast details the occasions we’re looking forward to from the vibrant British fashion scene this year.
Martine Rose at Pitti Uomo 103
We’ve heard we’ve known that London designer Martine Rose is “probably the top artist in the entire world” for a moment and we’re pretty sure Rose to be fully blooming again in Florence at the upcoming Pitti Uomo 103. In the final day of the menswear festival, Rose presents her upcoming collection at the event for institutions that is certain to distinguish her from the rest of her competitors this season.
This is because Pitti Uomo is not an event that is a “Fashion Week” instead it’s an event for trade with accompanying talks. It is geared toward stylists and buyers (as as opposed to press as well as influential people), Pitti acts as an opportunity for famous brands and newcomers to showcase their work in a position away from the typical calendar. For Rose leaving her London base means that her local brand will be able to expand into a larger, global arena.
Although her label, Pitti, is well-known and adored, Pitti should offer the designer the chance to see her work under a different setting, and also reflect her subversive ideas back on the norms that define Pitti as well as its fashion-conscious audience.
In her role as Pitti Uomo 103’s Guest Designer, Rose is likely to present her most impressive collection to the present. The loggia is set in the 16th century The show may show her gorgeous sporting attire and a penchant for collaborations meld with the lavish backdrops of Florence or it might turn Pitti upside down by incorporating a gritty Londoner’s style.
Daniel Lee for Burberry
Burberry’s history is a source of fascinating British legends. Established around 1856, with Thomas Burberry as a brand created to shield Brits from the harsh British weather and harsh climate, the House expanded into areas of terrace culture, military and luxury, but its image was tarnished in the late 2000s by the British media, who called it “chavtastic” in the wake of events like Eastenders soap star Danniella Westbrook’s entire Nova Check ensemble.
Now, fast forward to 2009 with Christopher Bailey at the reigns and Burberry was on the right track. Nova Checks went hand-in-hand with nostalgic ’90s fashion, feminine womenswear and streetwear-inspired tailoring and many other things that provided Riccardo Tisci who succeeded him, the model for success.
But according to Vogue observes, “Tisci’s Burberry failed to get off the ground in the same way as the owned by LVMH Givenchy did during his time as the brand’s CEO. the brand. The timing was difficult however, Tisci was playing with the wrong type of people.” Yes there was some battles to fight against COVID-19 and Brexit and COVID-19, but unwelcome changes such as the “TB” logo didn’t resonate with the public as much as much as the brand would have hoped.
This is where former Bottega Veneta chief Daniel Lee comes in. Lee’s in-depth knowledge of breathing new life into the House is undisputed and his influence in the world of Bottega Veneta has been indelible. The industry is now hoping that Lee will bring the same revival effect to Burberry.
His first show for the House is scheduled to take place at London Fashion Week, and everyone is watching his performance. We envision a design language that is rooted in codes from the past colors, colors and patterns that are influenced by the times gone by, but with cuts and modern undertones that bring Burberry back to its formal, sophisticated past, supported with well documented subcultural undertones that are fit for a brand revival that we will be remembered.
Maximilian Davis for Ferragamo
Manchester born, London College of Fashion alumni Maximilian Davis was brought in to make a splash at for the brand of Salvatore Ferragamo. The brand is now named Ferragamo, Davis’ debut was awaited with excitement: would he be able to do it?
Indeed, he did. Hypebeast stated that the event “closed the show Milan Fashion Week with a house rebranding that ticked all the boxes” like the young designer had created an entire brand completely from the ground up.
This collection was in support of Davis his vision all the way through. A dazzling organza was juxtaposed with elegant fabrics and billowing tailoring to create a relaxed and a modern outlook without focusing on any aspect. This is the basis to see the next thing Davis will do next.
His style is elegant and simple; however, don’t think it’s boring. The contrast between hot leather pants on guys, technical clothing made of white nylon, a nod at his British design heritage, and the ability to effortlessly balance feminine and masculine references within one outfit, Davis’ Ferragamo is not dated.
In his remarks about his appointment in 2022, he noted, “Ferragamo represents a dedication to timeless elegance and style that I find motivating. I’m excited to articulate my vision and enhancing it with the rules of Italian workmanship, quality, and ingenuity.”
This is what gets people all over the world excited for the second album which is sure to continue to teach an old dog new tricks.
Moncler Genius for LFW
Remo Ruffini’s Moncler Genius does exactly what it states on the Tin. From Craig Green’s stunning architectural designs to Palm Angels’ glitzy winter warmers, the creativity has seen designers both small and big take the typical Moncler and add an innovative twist.
The moment is now, Moncler Genius is heading to London Fashion Week. Although the collaboration designers are still not announced yet, this event will be an absolute success. To celebrate its 70th anniversary, Moncler took over Milan with hundreds of models and spectators taking part in the celebration and other events have seen the specialists in outerwear present digitally-produced presentations that were shown across the globe at the same time.
London Fashion Week has always been a chance for young designers to shine and often, they focus on their creativity. Houses however prefer grand display – and it could be a memorable event for Moncler Genius this season.
Young Designers are at London Fashion Week
Think about the phrase “time for emerging designers to shine.” London Fashion Week is the ideal venue for the emergence of new talent, and if the Spring/Summer 2023 is an indication, we may expect even more dominance in fashion month in the coming Fall/Winter 2023.
From Chopova Lowena’s gritty debut to S.S.DALEY’s beautiful grandeur, Chet Lo’s standing ovation-inducing runway, to NOKI’s intimate rave, SS23 brought smaller names to the forefront of every fashionista’s brain. Designers like BMUET(TE), 16Arlington, FEBEN, Edward Crutchley, HARRI and many more were the focus of conversation as the glitterati moved from one venue from one venue to the next. it’s a fact that the same thing will happen for FW23.
When you consider what the newcomers of last season were facing the likes of Raf Simons Burberry, Christopher Kane, JW Anderson – the presence of such legends didn’t dampen the emergence of brightness. Instead, we received an LFW that was split in two which worked in harmony to showcase the best of British fashion. FW23 will continue to promote the next generation of LFW so that it can thrive like it did for many years before its demise in the aftermath of and during the pandemic.
Punk’s Legacy
While the majority of this discusses the major players and shakers that are set to ignite our fashion world with their creativity but there’s a trend that could win the crown in 2023, and that’s punk.
In the wake of the demise of the late Dame Vivienne Westwood, who died in the month of December it’s the artists who she inspired to carry her torch into the coming year. Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood is certain to be a success (as it has always done) however, the such as Daniel W. Fletcher, Chopova Lowena, PRONOUNCE and maybe even some Fashion East students, all who have already offered their own ideas of punk, will set the tone for the year. Especially since as the Queen of Punk is no more with us.
There’s also an Gen-Z movement that is promoting the punk movement. Based on DIY and upcycling, people today with social media-savvy have made “Thrift-Flip”-toks and have accumulated many millions of views on sewing tutorials they’ve seen their plans come to fruition by the opening of new stores (such as the Waste Store in London) catering to the punk revivalists. This is why, with this thought in mind, and lots of political uncertainty in our midst, the year 2023 could be the year that punk comes out in its purest form for the next several decades.
IYKYK Streetwear is Back! IYKYK Streetwear
Clints, Corteiz, A1 Denim, Soho Yacht Club, AELIZA, HYO-ISAK… The list is endless. The names mentioned above dominated the UK streetwear scene; many of which were able to increase their stature through their uncompromising approach to fashion. There were some who were new to the block, while others utilized the time to perfect their skills, but they each one reflected the wants and wants of the culture and communities that drive Great British trends.
If you felt that 2022 could be considered the year that all streetwear brands launching whether for good or better – then 2023 is the year when these brands will continue to gain over the general public thanks to the devoted following each label has built from the ground up.
Why? because U.K. streetwear brands are embracing the enthusiasm of the younger generation like never before. The use of viral marketing, well-crafted campaigns, and distinctive beliefs have helped to build large-scale communities that are fully attuned to the identity of each brand. Labels such as Corteiz have their logos adorning the chests of a multitude of people across London and all over the world. The world’s most famous Anglophile, Drake, has been featured in the magazine the label, it’s obvious U.K. streetwear is taking all over the world.